I'm really enjoying climbing right now, and it hasn't felt this amazing in a long time. I'm not sure what has made this happen, but I would like to think that all these positive thoughts I have been putting through my head and using my brain more while climbing has made a difference.
It was a quiet night at the gym tonight and I rocked up with not a lot of psych, but after pulling out the skipping rope and getting the blood pumping that seemed to change heaps. Did some stretches for about 10 minutes, then jumped onto an easy traverse working up to some hardish moves.
I wasn't really planning on climbing hard tonight and I definitely wouldn't call it training, but I was just focused on being calm and clear minded while climbing. Deep breaths before climbing while looking over the sequence in my head a couple of times, lots of steady breathing during a climb and loud enough so I could hear myself breathe.
I'm happy it's all sinking in and doing what I was hoping it would do, I haven't taken much advice for what I'm trying to build up here so it's fairly personal, but I can't afford to lose my connection to climbing when it plays a big part in my life :)
And another thing, I've been helping out a friend (Josh) a little lately and climbing with him more than usual now, and damn he's getting some skill happening! It's such a good motivator to see him progressing so much lately. I don't think I've shouted out so much encouraging and positive words to someone while climbing in a long time, my attitude is changing and I'm liking it! :)
- Aden
Thursday, 23 February 2012
Tuesday, 21 February 2012
Training Works
Just a quick post about the importance of really trying and working for something. One of the longer problems at The Rock had a large crossover move that i am very weak at, but with a few specific excercises to strengthen, or at least wake them up. Two weeks of doing these every other day and the move, and the problem went today. Sometimes you have too really looks at your weaknesses and then pin-point what you have to do to get it done. Till next time, keep sending..
Monday, 20 February 2012
Some Monday psyche...
This is a video I've seen before but always great - take the time to check out the rest of Lee's awesome blog - great training articles and some niche gear... I sooooooooooooo want to do one of those climbing camps...
- Jimbo
Sunday, 19 February 2012
One Bed to the Left
After reading other logs from everyone else I had better join the discussion. The overriding goal at the moment is the project, One Bed to the Left 27 on Clique wall in the gramps. This has been the big one for a while now, about 5 full days now on it. The other guys have been talking about the physical aspects and how to be stronger, this is not the problem on 'the bed'. The moves are all very do-able, I have done them all multiple times now, it seems to. E some mental aspect that needs the work. Some mental block is stopping me at the crux each time I get there. Not sure what it is, as it has not really happened before, I am usually known for never letting to, but on this route I don't seem to pull as hard as I can. All I can do at the moment is wait for the cooler temps and go and try again and really try, not the half-arsed tries I have been doing up to now..... Stay tuned
Good habits
After reading Jame's post the other day I decided to change some things I do when I go for a climb. I really hope these things become good habits.
My first change for the afternoon was that I actually had a decent warm up. This included a few rounds of traversing and pulling all kinds of moves to warm up all my muscles not just the same stuff as usual. Yeah I know it sounds like the obvious things a rock climber should do for a warm up, but somewhere down the road I forgot about all this handy warm up stuff.
The second thing I'm turning into a habit will have to be including some stretching into this warm up. Even though it's normally unlikely for me to get injured without warming up and doing a proper stretch, it is in my best interest to keep my history of injuries low. I don't want to have the excuse of not being able to climb because I didn't warm up correctly.
During the time I am on the wall and climbing I have given myself a new rule to work by. If I'm in the middle of a climb or boulder problem and happen to cut loose when I know I could have kept my feet on, I will redo it or keep re-climbing it until it is perfect. It's always good for me to remind myself that I do have technique and it's here to be used. A lot of people say I have none and that's because I'm very lazy at using it, time to show them!
Lastly I'm getting back to more stretching before I head home, to leave feeling a tad more loose after my session and to reduce recovery time of those muscles that were getting used.
I'm going to make these habits stick for once, then I may actually be able to stick to a small training plan without stopping after a week or two. I'm very keen on opening up a new level of climbing for myself and to strive for better results on real rock, seeing improvements is always a great way to psyched for harder climbing.
- Aden
Saturday, 18 February 2012
Periodisation, Pyramids and Projects...
Below is a post a Toby sent to me in regards to training and some of the principles he uses... You can find more from the man himself by getting over to his blog here tobiasbucek.blogspot.com.au ==================>
Whilst he is a dirty trad climber, he is without doubt 'badass'!
Without going into too much details there are four principles to training:
SPECIFICITY: How and what you do is what you get better at
OVERLOAD: To get stronger you must place increasingly greater loads on your body
ADAPTION: After overload your body compensates and adapts to the new loads (but you gotta rest to let it do this)
REVERSIBILTY: aka 'detraining' stop doing stuff and you get weak again
I think that specificity is really the most important - assess your WEAKNESSES and train to improve those in a way that most reflects actually climbing situations in which those weaknesses hold you back.
ENDURANCE: Do lots and lots of climbing, try stay climbing for periods of 30 minutes or longer just below the threshold of getting pumped.
MAX STRENGTH: Overload overload overload, here you are trying to increase your muscle size ie hypertrophy a typical resistance routine would be 3 sets of 6-12 reps at 80% max.
POWER ENDURANCE: Try and get as hideously pumped as you possibly can
POWER: Quality over quantity here you are going for 1-3 reps of your absolute maximum, you should be 100% fresh and at this point feel like you are not training enough
'PERIODIZATION' Read up on Bompa but essentially rotate through what you train so you don't plateau and reduce the risk of injury.
Again assess your weaknesses and train to improve them, ask yourself what are my three best assets and three worst assets as a climber?
Ask the same question of training/climbing partners do they match up?
What are you training for?
What have you done already as a platform for that goal?
What can I do from this base to then reach that goal?
When I have tried hard problems what has held me back, was it a particular aspect of my strength? Which one? Fingers? Lock Off? Core?
All that said strength is probably not the issue, this last year I have been lucky enough to climb with the likes of Malcom Matherson, Mayan Golban-Smith, Dave Graham, Simon Young and plenty more who f---ing crush not one of them ever said anything about getting stronger on routes/problems they failed on (sure they used being 'tired' as a lame excuse for not doing some bloody thing or another) but the point is they always talked about moves, movement, body position, SO are you training to improve movement?
I noticed last night and we all do it, but I rarley get the chance to climb in gyms with others but when we are with other climbers we ALWAYS encourage them 'go for it' 'have it' 'allez' whatever you spray. It is of course fantastic to be in an encouraging environment and dig deep for that little extra bit that may help us send, but are you sending or training?
Think of another sport where our coaches/teammates would encourage us for just making that hold or desperately slapping something with awful technique. None, they would say that's shit, do it again PROPERLY this time. This is the attitude you should take into your training, you should be aiming yes to get stronger and go harder but not at the expense of good style and efficient movement on rock. So ask yourself and your training partners, how did that look, could I have been more efficient? Where were my feet? Where were my hips? Is this the best way of doing this problem? Why is this way better than that way?
I think your program looks good man, but think about specificity stick with it and you will definitely get stronger provided you focus on aspects that are weak. Make sure you stick with antagonist work personally I do push-ups, military press and external shoulder rotation with a stretch band 3-4 times a week and whatever rehab exercise for niggling injuries at the time usually elbows (you will get this if you keep campusing!) also the importance of a warm-up, cool-down and stretch don't think of them as seperate to your training/climbing they are an essential part of it, at the end of the day if you cool-down and stretch properly you will recover quicker, therefore train more and be stronger sooner. Keep riding your bike. But climbing isn't all in your muscles, the beauty that we all enjoy is the movement more akin to dancing perhaps, so think like a dancer and try get 10/10 on your score card OLE!
Jimbo
Whilst he is a dirty trad climber, he is without doubt 'badass'!
Without going into too much details there are four principles to training:
SPECIFICITY: How and what you do is what you get better at
OVERLOAD: To get stronger you must place increasingly greater loads on your body
ADAPTION: After overload your body compensates and adapts to the new loads (but you gotta rest to let it do this)
REVERSIBILTY: aka 'detraining' stop doing stuff and you get weak again
I think that specificity is really the most important - assess your WEAKNESSES and train to improve those in a way that most reflects actually climbing situations in which those weaknesses hold you back.
ENDURANCE: Do lots and lots of climbing, try stay climbing for periods of 30 minutes or longer just below the threshold of getting pumped.
MAX STRENGTH: Overload overload overload, here you are trying to increase your muscle size ie hypertrophy a typical resistance routine would be 3 sets of 6-12 reps at 80% max.
POWER ENDURANCE: Try and get as hideously pumped as you possibly can
POWER: Quality over quantity here you are going for 1-3 reps of your absolute maximum, you should be 100% fresh and at this point feel like you are not training enough
'PERIODIZATION' Read up on Bompa but essentially rotate through what you train so you don't plateau and reduce the risk of injury.
Again assess your weaknesses and train to improve them, ask yourself what are my three best assets and three worst assets as a climber?
Ask the same question of training/climbing partners do they match up?
What are you training for?
What have you done already as a platform for that goal?
What can I do from this base to then reach that goal?
When I have tried hard problems what has held me back, was it a particular aspect of my strength? Which one? Fingers? Lock Off? Core?
All that said strength is probably not the issue, this last year I have been lucky enough to climb with the likes of Malcom Matherson, Mayan Golban-Smith, Dave Graham, Simon Young and plenty more who f---ing crush not one of them ever said anything about getting stronger on routes/problems they failed on (sure they used being 'tired' as a lame excuse for not doing some bloody thing or another) but the point is they always talked about moves, movement, body position, SO are you training to improve movement?
I noticed last night and we all do it, but I rarley get the chance to climb in gyms with others but when we are with other climbers we ALWAYS encourage them 'go for it' 'have it' 'allez' whatever you spray. It is of course fantastic to be in an encouraging environment and dig deep for that little extra bit that may help us send, but are you sending or training?
Think of another sport where our coaches/teammates would encourage us for just making that hold or desperately slapping something with awful technique. None, they would say that's shit, do it again PROPERLY this time. This is the attitude you should take into your training, you should be aiming yes to get stronger and go harder but not at the expense of good style and efficient movement on rock. So ask yourself and your training partners, how did that look, could I have been more efficient? Where were my feet? Where were my hips? Is this the best way of doing this problem? Why is this way better than that way?
I think your program looks good man, but think about specificity stick with it and you will definitely get stronger provided you focus on aspects that are weak. Make sure you stick with antagonist work personally I do push-ups, military press and external shoulder rotation with a stretch band 3-4 times a week and whatever rehab exercise for niggling injuries at the time usually elbows (you will get this if you keep campusing!) also the importance of a warm-up, cool-down and stretch don't think of them as seperate to your training/climbing they are an essential part of it, at the end of the day if you cool-down and stretch properly you will recover quicker, therefore train more and be stronger sooner. Keep riding your bike. But climbing isn't all in your muscles, the beauty that we all enjoy is the movement more akin to dancing perhaps, so think like a dancer and try get 10/10 on your score card OLE!
-Tobes
When looking at your 'base', we discussed putting it into a pyramid, which builds up to your project grade or problem, and analysing the styles and holds that they were. For example, my ticks are primarily overhanging or roofs, with only a few truly vertical blocs. They tend to be edge/pocket/sloper mixes, without all crimp or all slopers. Problems were the moves are hard, but the holds are good.
My grade pyramid (in the Grampians) looks like this:
V9 - 2
V8 - 2
V7 - 6
V6 - 16
V5 - 17
V4 - 18
I've only listed V4+ as below V3 is usually a warm up, or not something I pay attention to.
My project list posted below (in 8 weeks to V8) is almost an upside down pyramid = problem!
I've since adjusted my 'to-do list' to include a greater amount of V5, V6 and V7 problems which complement the style in which the harder projects lie (roof, thuggy) - kind how a marathon runner will run hundreds of kilometres in preparation for a 42km race.
Upon completion, the new pyramid looks like this:
V11 - 1 (+1)
V10 - 4 (+4)
V9 - 8 (+6)
V8 - 10 (+8)
V7 - 16 (+10)
V6 - 24 (+8)
V5 - 26 (+6)
Trust me, I don't think I'll be doing V10+ any time soon, but I certainly think I am capable of it. 8a or V11 has always been my 'career' goal for bouldering (same as 30 for routes) - that magic number that if I was to achieve that and have to then give up climbing, I could be satisfied with.
I've broken down my projects into smaller batches for the next 6 months...
My short term (next 4 weeks) goals are:
When looking at your 'base', we discussed putting it into a pyramid, which builds up to your project grade or problem, and analysing the styles and holds that they were. For example, my ticks are primarily overhanging or roofs, with only a few truly vertical blocs. They tend to be edge/pocket/sloper mixes, without all crimp or all slopers. Problems were the moves are hard, but the holds are good.
My grade pyramid (in the Grampians) looks like this:
V9 - 2
V8 - 2
V7 - 6
V6 - 16
V5 - 17
V4 - 18
I've only listed V4+ as below V3 is usually a warm up, or not something I pay attention to.
My project list posted below (in 8 weeks to V8) is almost an upside down pyramid = problem!
I've since adjusted my 'to-do list' to include a greater amount of V5, V6 and V7 problems which complement the style in which the harder projects lie (roof, thuggy) - kind how a marathon runner will run hundreds of kilometres in preparation for a 42km race.
Upon completion, the new pyramid looks like this:
V11 - 1 (+1)
V10 - 4 (+4)
V9 - 8 (+6)
V8 - 10 (+8)
V7 - 16 (+10)
V6 - 24 (+8)
V5 - 26 (+6)
Trust me, I don't think I'll be doing V10+ any time soon, but I certainly think I am capable of it. 8a or V11 has always been my 'career' goal for bouldering (same as 30 for routes) - that magic number that if I was to achieve that and have to then give up climbing, I could be satisfied with.
I've broken down my projects into smaller batches for the next 6 months...
My short term (next 4 weeks) goals are:
Platinum Flow V5
Transcience V6
Puppet Master V6
The Shield V6
Discovery V6
Rise of the Machines V7
Mid term goals (by end of June)
Transcience V6
Puppet Master V6
The Shield V6
Discovery V6
Rise of the Machines V7
Mid term goals (by end of June)
Affenschaukel V5
Captain Tonelli V5
Master Bates V5
808 State V5
Maple V5
Swedish Meatballs V5
Sick Nutter V5
Nice Max V5
Affenschaukel V5
I Feel So Holy V6
Fallen Cow V6
Drowning DiCaprio V6
Full Cream V6
Gay Hip Flexor V7
Grand Discovery V7
Mr Knox V7
Whipped Cream V7
Happy Camper Traverse V8/9
Cave Man V9
6 month goals (by start of September)
French Toast V7
Flash Gordon V7
Waiting in the Air V7
Attack of the Killer Drop Bears V6
Tim Tam Traverse V7
Aphrodite V7
Hot Henry V8
Left el Westwood V8
Da Lai Lahmung V8
Gourmet Cats V8
American Dream V8
Finally, I've decided to drop campusing for now from my training. With a mix of slopers, crimps and roofs, it serves my goals to focus on finger and core strength and antagonistic muscles.
Labour Day weekend it is on!!! =D If you have your own project list, post em up!
Captain Tonelli V5
Master Bates V5
808 State V5
Maple V5
Swedish Meatballs V5
Sick Nutter V5
Nice Max V5
Affenschaukel V5
I Feel So Holy V6
Fallen Cow V6
Drowning DiCaprio V6
Full Cream V6
Gay Hip Flexor V7
Grand Discovery V7
Mr Knox V7
Whipped Cream V7
Happy Camper Traverse V8/9
Cave Man V9
6 month goals (by start of September)
French Toast V7
Flash Gordon V7
Waiting in the Air V7
Attack of the Killer Drop Bears V6
Tim Tam Traverse V7
Aphrodite V7
Hot Henry V8
Left el Westwood V8
Da Lai Lahmung V8
Gourmet Cats V8
American Dream V8
Finally, I've decided to drop campusing for now from my training. With a mix of slopers, crimps and roofs, it serves my goals to focus on finger and core strength and antagonistic muscles.
Labour Day weekend it is on!!! =D If you have your own project list, post em up!
Jimbo
Thursday, 16 February 2012
Just another Thursday night...
Another great night of climbing! I really think that the 2 months of me thinking that I couldn't climb and having a forced break helped, well not completely forced I had some say in it :). Like seriously, if I didn't go and screw up some stuff in my knee I would probably have two snapped thumbs and ruptured ligaments in all my fingers. So yes I think I may have almost finally realised how good a break can be.
Other than that, the climbing tonight was pretty good. I set something with a dodgy first move on the moon board but James saved the night with a really cool set there as well, until he changed it... Several times... But it still climbs well! It's good to see everyone climbing hard and pushing themselves on stuff.
Speaking of people climbing stuff, where is everyone on Tuesdays and Thursdays? Or even a Sunday afternoon? That's where it's at! - The Rock Adventure Centre, heard of it? Be there or be square :)
(Don't judge me, it's my first time blogging :P)
- Aden
Other than that, the climbing tonight was pretty good. I set something with a dodgy first move on the moon board but James saved the night with a really cool set there as well, until he changed it... Several times... But it still climbs well! It's good to see everyone climbing hard and pushing themselves on stuff.
Speaking of people climbing stuff, where is everyone on Tuesdays and Thursdays? Or even a Sunday afternoon? That's where it's at! - The Rock Adventure Centre, heard of it? Be there or be square :)
(Don't judge me, it's my first time blogging :P)
- Aden
Wednesday, 15 February 2012
Thank god today is a rest day...
You know you have been training when it hurts to type! Skin a little worse for where today.
Last night was the first fingerboard session and I was pretty happy with how it went.
After feeling stiff and sore at the beginning, I warmed up on a few easy boulders, generated a little pump and got down to it.
In the end I got through the Beginner workout easily, had 15 minutes rest (instead of planned 20) and then failed at end of 7th minute in Intermediate workout - those 20sec hangs on edges killed me!! Lesson learned - stick to the training plan and rest even if you dont think you need it! At least now I have a good point from which to measure improvement.
Managed to complete the push ups, only JUST completing the third set - it's probably the most push ups I have done in a very long time so no suprises I was a little rusty.
On a less boring note, it was great to see everyone so psyched to train at the gym last night! Not only that, but encouraging each other in their respective training regimes rather than hanging shit on each other. Also good to see Aden hasn't lost any strength since injurying his knee cutting laps on things we can't even fathom. Bastard ;)
I'm excited to see where this whole process takes me.. I can already feel some improvement in my body and we are only 2 days in! I will definitely need to keep up the daily stretching and will need to look into some nutritional/recovery products recommended to me.. Might even treat myself to a massage.
Only 2 more sessions for this week and then I'll update the stats!
Jimbo
Last night was the first fingerboard session and I was pretty happy with how it went.
After feeling stiff and sore at the beginning, I warmed up on a few easy boulders, generated a little pump and got down to it.
In the end I got through the Beginner workout easily, had 15 minutes rest (instead of planned 20) and then failed at end of 7th minute in Intermediate workout - those 20sec hangs on edges killed me!! Lesson learned - stick to the training plan and rest even if you dont think you need it! At least now I have a good point from which to measure improvement.
Managed to complete the push ups, only JUST completing the third set - it's probably the most push ups I have done in a very long time so no suprises I was a little rusty.
On a less boring note, it was great to see everyone so psyched to train at the gym last night! Not only that, but encouraging each other in their respective training regimes rather than hanging shit on each other. Also good to see Aden hasn't lost any strength since injurying his knee cutting laps on things we can't even fathom. Bastard ;)
I'm excited to see where this whole process takes me.. I can already feel some improvement in my body and we are only 2 days in! I will definitely need to keep up the daily stretching and will need to look into some nutritional/recovery products recommended to me.. Might even treat myself to a massage.
Only 2 more sessions for this week and then I'll update the stats!
Jimbo
Monday, 13 February 2012
Starting point...
STARTING STATS
Weight: 74.1kg
Chest: 95cm
Right forearm: 28cm
Left forearm: 26cm
Right bicep: 34cm
Left bicep: 33cm
Well first session down after 2 weeks of no climbing... I'm well wrecked but it gives me a good idea of where I am at... Skin is sore, but no flappers so thats a plus!
Firstly, the session is better suited to the pull ups and frenchies at the start of the session when fresh. Pull ups have always been my weakness so best to do those before anything else.
Frenchies were a lot harder than I remember - I'm going to modify the program to 1 set of 5 with good form before pushing to 2 sets.
Dips were easy, and can drop to 1 minute rest between sets instead of 2... Core still good - tiring but no dramas there.
Tomorrow's fingerboard session will be interesting!
Jimbo
8 weeks back to V8...
After a better than expected Australia Day trip, I am really motivated and psyched to apply myself more than ever before. 'Back in the day' I had the luxury of a fast metabolism, no responsibilities, casual work and minimal expenses - I could go out clubbing all night, drive to the Grampians at 6am, send V8 in a day and drive back home! How I miss those days!
Alas, now I am 'all grown up' with a young family, finding the time to get away is harder and harder... The list of 'have tried' is starting to get bigger than the 'have done'..
Finally though, I'm injury free, the weather is cooling down (slowly) and motivation is high...
I've given myself 8 weeks to get back in sending shape, before the prime conditions of April and May.
Below are the lists of projects I have yet to complete or have always wanted to do or (like the Westwood problems) have just got to be done! Will I be in shape to do them all within 8 weeks? Probably not. But I will have a significantly better chance than I do now! At the very least I will severely shorten my 'to do' list.. Start at the bottom and work my way up!
PROJECTS
Transcience (V6) @ Andersens
Puppet Master (V6) @ Andersens
Rise of the Machines (V7) @ Andersens
Aphrodite (V7) @ Hollow Mountain Cave
Gay Hip Flexor (V7) @ Campground Boulders
Desire (V8) @ Hollow Mountain Cave
Left El Westwood (V8) @ Trackside
Direct El Westwood (V8) @ Trackside
Gourmet Cats (V8) @ Campground Boulders
Da Lai Lahmung (V8) @ Campground Boulders
Happy Camper Traverse (V8/9) @ Campground Boulders
Cave Man (V9) @ Hollow Mountain Cave
Annagramma (V9) @ Hollow Mountain Cave
Far Left El Westwood (V9) @ Trackside
Cave Heart (V10) @ Hollow Mountain Cave
Using all the scientific methods (trawling internet, Chockstone feedback) I've come up with the following program which I aim to stick with for 4 weeks, then re-assess.. Some elements may then not be required, some might need to be increased or decreased - who knows.. Climbing isn't an exact sport, so it will adapt as need be..
My main weaknesses right now is my core and my upper body - the projects are steep, dynamic and with small holds.
Of course every session will include warming up and stretching as well as a cool down, but the main focus will be below:
MONDAY
Bouldering
Pull Ups
Core
Dips
TUESDAY
Fingerboard
Push Ups
Core
WEDNESDAY
Rest
THURSDAY
Campusing
Core
Push Ups
FRIDAY
Rest
SATURDAY
Core
Push Ups
Military Press
Dips
SUNDAY
Rest
PULL UPS
10 reps hands facing away
2 mins rest
10 reps hands facing towards
2 mins rest
5 x 'Frenchies'
2 mins rest
5 x 'Frenchies'
PUSH UPS
10 reps x 3 sets… 2 mins between sets
CORE
10 x reach ups/10 x leg raises/20 x Russian twists with 10kg plate/ball
2 minutes rest
10 x reach ups/10 x leg raises/20 x Russian twists with 7.5kg plate/ball
2 minutes rest
10 x reach ups/10 x leg raises/20 x Russian twists with 5kg plate/ball
2 minutes rest
2 minute plank
1 minute rest
2 minute plank
1 minute rest
Plank until failure
FINGERBOARD
10min Metolius Beginner workout
20 minutes rest
10min Metolius Intermediate workout
20 min rest
Max dead hang small edge
3 minutes rest
Max dead hang medium edge
3 minutes rest
Max dead hang large edge
MILITARY PRESS
10 reps x 3 sets… 2 mins between sets…
DIPS
10 reps x 3 sets… 2 mins between sets…
CAMPUS
Ladder 1-3-5-7-9 x 2 sets (1min rest between sets)
Ladder 1-4-6-9 x 2 Sets leading with each arm (4 sets in total) (1min rest between sets)
Rest 4 Minutes
Touches 1-4-1 (3 Sets of 1-4-1-4-1-4-1-4-1 leading with alternative hands, i.e. Left Hand touches rung 4 2 times, as does the Right Hand for each set. Rest 2 minutes between each set.
Rest 4 Minutes
Touches 1-4-3-4 (2 sets for each arm, 1-4-3-4-3-4-3-4 for each set keeping one arm constantly on rung one and the other moving between rungs 3 and 4. Resting 2 minutes each set.
Rest 4 Minutes
Doubles x 2 sets - 1-3-2-4-3-5-4-6-5-7
Rest 4 Minutes
Ladder Maximum 1-4-7 … 3 tries leading with each arm (6 tries in total) resting 2 minutes between each try..
I'll be posting up later today my starting point... Weight, chest/forearm/bicep circumference, max hang small/medium/large edge, max pull ups, max push ups so I can track my (hopeful) improvement.. Might even get a starting picture in there too..
After each sesh I'll post my training log for those interested in following my progress or spectacular failure! haha
I hope you enjoy either way!
Jimbo
Alas, now I am 'all grown up' with a young family, finding the time to get away is harder and harder... The list of 'have tried' is starting to get bigger than the 'have done'..
Finally though, I'm injury free, the weather is cooling down (slowly) and motivation is high...
I've given myself 8 weeks to get back in sending shape, before the prime conditions of April and May.
Below are the lists of projects I have yet to complete or have always wanted to do or (like the Westwood problems) have just got to be done! Will I be in shape to do them all within 8 weeks? Probably not. But I will have a significantly better chance than I do now! At the very least I will severely shorten my 'to do' list.. Start at the bottom and work my way up!
PROJECTS
Transcience (V6) @ Andersens
Puppet Master (V6) @ Andersens
Rise of the Machines (V7) @ Andersens
Aphrodite (V7) @ Hollow Mountain Cave
Gay Hip Flexor (V7) @ Campground Boulders
Desire (V8) @ Hollow Mountain Cave
Left El Westwood (V8) @ Trackside
Direct El Westwood (V8) @ Trackside
Gourmet Cats (V8) @ Campground Boulders
Da Lai Lahmung (V8) @ Campground Boulders
Happy Camper Traverse (V8/9) @ Campground Boulders
Cave Man (V9) @ Hollow Mountain Cave
Annagramma (V9) @ Hollow Mountain Cave
Far Left El Westwood (V9) @ Trackside
Cave Heart (V10) @ Hollow Mountain Cave
Using all the scientific methods (trawling internet, Chockstone feedback) I've come up with the following program which I aim to stick with for 4 weeks, then re-assess.. Some elements may then not be required, some might need to be increased or decreased - who knows.. Climbing isn't an exact sport, so it will adapt as need be..
My main weaknesses right now is my core and my upper body - the projects are steep, dynamic and with small holds.
Of course every session will include warming up and stretching as well as a cool down, but the main focus will be below:
MONDAY
Bouldering
Pull Ups
Core
Dips
TUESDAY
Fingerboard
Push Ups
Core
WEDNESDAY
Rest
THURSDAY
Campusing
Core
Push Ups
FRIDAY
Rest
SATURDAY
Core
Push Ups
Military Press
Dips
SUNDAY
Rest
PULL UPS
10 reps hands facing away
2 mins rest
10 reps hands facing towards
2 mins rest
5 x 'Frenchies'
2 mins rest
5 x 'Frenchies'
PUSH UPS
10 reps x 3 sets… 2 mins between sets
CORE
10 x reach ups/10 x leg raises/20 x Russian twists with 10kg plate/ball
2 minutes rest
10 x reach ups/10 x leg raises/20 x Russian twists with 7.5kg plate/ball
2 minutes rest
10 x reach ups/10 x leg raises/20 x Russian twists with 5kg plate/ball
2 minutes rest
2 minute plank
1 minute rest
2 minute plank
1 minute rest
Plank until failure
FINGERBOARD
10min Metolius Beginner workout
20 minutes rest
10min Metolius Intermediate workout
20 min rest
Max dead hang small edge
3 minutes rest
Max dead hang medium edge
3 minutes rest
Max dead hang large edge
MILITARY PRESS
10 reps x 3 sets… 2 mins between sets…
DIPS
10 reps x 3 sets… 2 mins between sets…
CAMPUS
Ladder 1-3-5-7-9 x 2 sets (1min rest between sets)
Ladder 1-4-6-9 x 2 Sets leading with each arm (4 sets in total) (1min rest between sets)
Rest 4 Minutes
Touches 1-4-1 (3 Sets of 1-4-1-4-1-4-1-4-1 leading with alternative hands, i.e. Left Hand touches rung 4 2 times, as does the Right Hand for each set. Rest 2 minutes between each set.
Rest 4 Minutes
Touches 1-4-3-4 (2 sets for each arm, 1-4-3-4-3-4-3-4 for each set keeping one arm constantly on rung one and the other moving between rungs 3 and 4. Resting 2 minutes each set.
Rest 4 Minutes
Doubles x 2 sets - 1-3-2-4-3-5-4-6-5-7
Rest 4 Minutes
Ladder Maximum 1-4-7 … 3 tries leading with each arm (6 tries in total) resting 2 minutes between each try..
I'll be posting up later today my starting point... Weight, chest/forearm/bicep circumference, max hang small/medium/large edge, max pull ups, max push ups so I can track my (hopeful) improvement.. Might even get a starting picture in there too..
After each sesh I'll post my training log for those interested in following my progress or spectacular failure! haha
I hope you enjoy either way!
Jimbo
Sunday, 12 February 2012
Australia Day Weekend in the Grampians
Over the long weekend I was lucky enough to get some time away in the Grampians, this time with the family in tow. The weather forecast said 35+ for all three days so we opted to stay in the Mt Zero Log Cabins which was definitely worth the money! Aircon, cold drinks, a real bed, showers and a pool made all the difference!
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| Our humble abode for the weekend... |
Early Saturday morning Troy rocked up to my place and we set about packing the cars and organising Xavier - note to self: take the day off work before any long weekend away with 7 month old child! Baby carriers, bottles, mashed vegies, toys and nappy bag all thankfully made their way into the car and we were off, with a stop in Ararat for McDonalds breakfast, shopping and some weet-bix for Xav.
We got to Hollow Mountain Car Park about 9:30am, saddled up and headed up to Andersens - the guys were working on Minute Man (V3).. Whilst not a 'hard' problem it is high, with big long moves between jugs for 2/3rds of the problem, then a balancey top out with non-obvious holds. We had all tried the problem on previous trips, but this time we had lots of pads, lots of spotters and lots of psych!
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| Bit of weight training for the walk in... |
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| Ben going for the crux edge... |
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| Mark on Minute Man - has to dyno to each hold! |
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| Rich doing the 'Gargoyle' after sending Minute Man... |
Rich sent the problem shortly after I arrived, and I managed to send it first shot as a warm up! So stoked! New plan - do everything first shot! haha Ben and Troy also managed to tick it, with Mark giving it several good burns before admitting defeat for now...
We then headed down into the main area of Andersens where Tash got to work on ticking her project, the classic highball Sydney Highrise (V3)
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| Through the hard part.. Much easier if you are taller than Tash! |
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| Happy days! After a break, we set to working on Illiad (V4) another problem making up the Bachelor of the Grampians (Ben and Troy's goal for the trip)... Its a steep boulder with poor feet at the start and involves slapping around both sides of a prow and then climbing around the nose... I had done it before and managed to repeat it within a couple of attempts. Troy also managed to drag his ass (not very far) off the ground and do it as well! Rich was working on on a nearby V5, Master Bates, which is well hard (especially in 35 degree heat)... The crux involves a heinous match with shit feet.. I tried it a couple of times and got no where. Rich came VERY close to getting the tick, but the sun and lack of skin forced him off it. In the afternoon, we headed over to the Font Boulder where I repeated White Destiny (V5) after getting all pissed off at the start... Rich repeated it soon after, with the others giving it a few good lashes but coming off at the sloper crux top out. I almost managed Out of the Bleau (V5) but skin and heat meant no go! To finish off I ran up Pinche and the Brain, a rad V4 on the arete. It's only a couple of moves before it backs off but still awesome none the less! Troy ticked it as well as Rich, and Benny pulled off the flash! DAY 2 was up to Loopey's and Echoes Block... Ben and Troy kept talking about 'The List' and had Fashion (V3) and Old Henry's Fun Climb (V4) in their sights. Without a baby to organise, they got their first, and Troy, Ben and Rich quickly ticked off Fashion. I arrived shortly after and warmed up on Fashion and Passion (V4) before we headed down to Old Henry's Fun Climb... This is another super classic and if you have a couple of pads you should definitely try it! The first move with a dynamic move up to a ledge with pretty crappy feet, but once you are there the moves are pretty straightforward - just need some aim eh Troy and Ben? ;) Ben eventually ticked it with shouts of 'suck my dick' or something else along those lines... Rich was the first to tick it, with me doing it immediately after (noticing a trend here?) and lastly Benny - Troy was SO close as well and I know he will do it next time. |
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| Benny on Old Henry's Fun Climb (V4) |
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| Troy crushing on Fashion (V3) |
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| Troy on Dra Dri (V3) |
Jimmy S managed to send Mary, the worlds hardest V2 - that thing is nails!
Afterwards we wanted to show the guys some of the other cool boulders at Campground so we headed up to the Gourmet Cats boulder. Rich had managed to tick Connection (V6), which is a sweet little dyno/jump off some mingin' crimps. Troy managed to tick it next with possibly the worlds ugliest sequence, and I did it next shot after him with a few more style points ;) Super cool!
Doing this problem made me feel a little more confident about my chances on Gourmet Cats (V8) which is next to this problem - its just a lot more sharper and steeper!
DAY 3 saw us trek off to Trackside - this is one of those areas that I never really go to as a destination, its somewhere I kinda go on the way to somewhere else. It's a shame really because it is such a cool area.
Like everyone we started off at the Amazing Boulder, warming up on the imaginatively named V2 Sit... After that, we hit up the slopey classic Paranoic Critical Town (V3) and the burly Wiggly Boy (V3). Rich and I toyed with the idea of Sick Nutter (V5 my ass) before realising that it was definitely not going to happen today. We set to work on sorting out the sequence for Media Construct (V6) a long slopey (and somewhat contrived) traverse which finishes up Paranoic Critical Town. In the end Rich, Ben, Troy and I all managed to tick it!
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| Troy on Media Construct (V6) |
Rich also managed to scrub the sand out and send Surfing without a Mouse (V3) a route-without-a-rope which I missed seeing as I was tending to an unhappy son!
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| Xav snoozing under Cardigan Street (V7) |
After that, we had grand plans of finding other boulders but motivation and skin was running low. Rich and I scoped the Westwood Boulder and both agreed we were coming back! I was really excited to see this boulder - cool lines, in my style and weighing in at V9, V8, V4 and V8. Whilst I will need to train for these I know they are well within my abilities!
On the way out we decided to check out Epsilon Crack (V5) at Epsilon Wall.. It was wet last time we were here, but thankfully it was in prime condition! I'm so glad we stopped here as this is one of the best V5s I think I have ever done. I got it second shot and repeated it again it was so rad! Rich wouldn't let me take all the glory so kept throwing himself at it over and over until he got it as well! Troy came super close (just a timing issue!) and Benny was look solid til he did his hammy! Ouch!
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| Starting moves on Epsilon Crack - get the heel in deeeeeeep! |
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| Heel hook plus undercling crimp = solid! |
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| Alley oop! |
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| Swingin for the crowds |
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| Finising jug! |
Peace out,
Jimbo
Tick List:
Connection V6
Media Construct V6
Klapusterperle V6 (Repeat)
Epsilon Crack V5
White Destiny V5 (Repeat)
The Claw V5 (Repeat)
Old Henry's Fun Climb V4
Pinche and the Brain V4 (Repeat)
Illiad V4 (Repeat)
Passion V4 (Repeat)
Minute Man V3
Wiggly Boy V3 (Repeat)
Paranoic Critical Town V3 (Repeat)
Fashion V3 (Repeat)
Dra Dri V3 (Repeat)
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