8 weeks back to V8...

After a better than expected Australia Day trip, I am really motivated and psyched to apply myself more than ever before. 'Back in the day' I had the luxury of a fast metabolism, no responsibilities, casual work and minimal expenses - I could go out clubbing all night, drive to the Grampians at 6am, send V8 in a day and drive back home! How I miss those days!

Alas, now I am 'all grown up' with a young family, finding the time to get away is harder and harder... The list of 'have tried' is starting to get bigger than the 'have done'..

Finally though, I'm injury free, the weather is cooling down (slowly) and motivation is high...

I've given myself 8 weeks to get back in sending shape, before the prime conditions of April and May.

Below are the lists of projects I have yet to complete or have always wanted to do or (like the Westwood problems) have just got to be done! Will I be in shape to do them all within 8 weeks? Probably not. But I will have a significantly better chance than I do now! At the very least I will severely shorten my 'to do' list.. Start at the bottom and work my way up!

PROJECTS
Transcience (V6) @ Andersens
Puppet Master (V6) @ Andersens

Rise of the Machines (V7) @ Andersens
Aphrodite (V7) @ Hollow Mountain Cave
Gay Hip Flexor (V7) @ Campground Boulders

Desire (V8) @ Hollow Mountain Cave
Left El Westwood (V8) @ Trackside
Direct El Westwood (V8) @ Trackside
Gourmet Cats (V8) @ Campground Boulders
Da Lai Lahmung (V8) @ Campground Boulders

Happy Camper Traverse (V8/9) @ Campground Boulders

Cave Man (V9) @ Hollow Mountain Cave
Annagramma (V9) @ Hollow Mountain Cave
Far Left El Westwood (V9) @ Trackside

Cave Heart (V10) @ Hollow Mountain Cave

Using all the scientific methods (trawling internet, Chockstone feedback) I've come up with the following program which I aim to stick with for 4 weeks, then re-assess.. Some elements may then not be required, some might need to be increased or decreased - who knows.. Climbing isn't an exact sport, so it will adapt as need be..

My main weaknesses right now is my core and my upper body - the projects are steep, dynamic and with small holds.

Of course every session will include warming up and stretching as well as a cool down, but the main focus will be below:

MONDAY
Bouldering
Pull Ups
Core
Dips

TUESDAY
Fingerboard
Push Ups
Core

WEDNESDAY
Rest

THURSDAY
Campusing
Core
Push Ups

FRIDAY
Rest

SATURDAY
Core
Push Ups
Military Press
Dips

SUNDAY
Rest

PULL UPS
10 reps hands facing away
2 mins rest
10 reps hands facing towards
2 mins rest
5 x 'Frenchies'
2 mins rest
5 x 'Frenchies'

PUSH UPS
10 reps x 3 sets… 2 mins between sets

CORE
10 x reach ups/10 x leg raises/20 x Russian twists with 10kg plate/ball
2 minutes rest
10 x reach ups/10 x leg raises/20 x Russian twists with 7.5kg plate/ball
2 minutes rest
10 x reach ups/10 x leg raises/20 x Russian twists with 5kg plate/ball
2 minutes rest
2 minute plank
1 minute rest
2 minute plank
1 minute rest
Plank until failure

FINGERBOARD
10min Metolius Beginner workout
20 minutes rest
10min Metolius Intermediate workout
20 min rest
Max dead hang small edge
3 minutes rest
Max dead hang medium edge
3 minutes rest
Max dead hang large edge

MILITARY PRESS
10 reps x 3 sets… 2 mins between sets…

DIPS
10 reps x 3 sets… 2 mins between sets…

CAMPUS
Ladder 1-3-5-7-9 x 2 sets (1min rest between sets)
Ladder 1-4-6-9 x 2 Sets leading with each arm (4 sets in total) (1min rest between sets)
Rest 4 Minutes
Touches 1-4-1 (3 Sets of 1-4-1-4-1-4-1-4-1 leading with alternative hands, i.e. Left Hand touches rung 4 2 times, as does the Right Hand for each set. Rest 2 minutes between each set.
Rest 4 Minutes
Touches 1-4-3-4 (2 sets for each arm, 1-4-3-4-3-4-3-4 for each set keeping one arm constantly on rung one and the other moving between rungs 3 and 4. Resting 2 minutes each set.
Rest 4 Minutes
Doubles x 2 sets - 1-3-2-4-3-5-4-6-5-7
Rest 4 Minutes
Ladder Maximum 1-4-7 … 3 tries leading with each arm (6 tries in total) resting 2 minutes between each try..

I'll be posting up later today my starting point... Weight, chest/forearm/bicep circumference, max hang small/medium/large edge, max pull ups, max push ups so I can track my (hopeful) improvement.. Might even get a starting picture in there too..

After each sesh I'll post my training log for those interested in following my progress or spectacular failure! haha

I hope you enjoy either way!

Jimbo